Over-improving your Home: doing too much of a good thing

Homeowners doing major renovations this summer may not want to hear it, but there’s actually such a thing as doing too much. Spending too much. Adding too much.

Bankrate‘s Dana Dratch says over-improving means you may be bringing a curse upon yourself: sinking so much into upgrades, renovations or additions that you’ve burned nearly all the equity of your home. If you plan to stay in your house for the rest of your life, perhaps it can eventually pay off. While it may increase the value of your property if you, like many homeowners, need to sell in the next 5-10 years, it’s likely you may never get 100 cents on the dollar, no matter what the improvement.

No. It doesn’t mean to stop dead in your tracks for your next renovation project. But it does mean you need to be careful in planning it, costing it out, and making sure it isn’t an exception to the rule in your neighborhood. Of course, if the improvements are for your own convenience — like adding a first-floor bedroom because you can’t face the stairs any more — that’s fine. But if your sole purpose is to increase the price of your home when you go to sell it, don’t take bets on it.

Dratch recommends asking yourself a few questions before you dive in. As mentioned, go ahead and over-improve if you’re going to stay there for a long time. If not, and your plan is to move in the next three to five years, resist the urge and bide your time. Realtors agree, however: there’s one in every neighborhood. There is always one guy who convinced himself that if he adds enough granite, hardwood, and molding to his modest house, he can get a premium price when it sells. Dratch quotes a Realtor who says, “Just because a house has new countertops and a brand-new master bath doesn’t mean you’ve made more square footage in your house. Compared to houses down the street with the same amount of square footage, the prices will be basically the same,” she says.

Watch a lot of HGTV? Remember that the Fixer Upper couple as well as the Property Brothers look for the shabbiest, lowest-priced house in the BEST neighborhoods. Once they’ve done their magic, that house will simply match the value of the homes around it.

If you own a $400,000 house in a $400,000 neighborhood and do a slew of renovations and additions, don’t plan to turn around and list it for $700,000. Your Realtor can help you by checking values and running comparable properties in your area to see if your plans are in line with what appraisers can get their heads around or you are totally off-base. Why do you need to appease appraisers? Because the majority of homebuyers get a mortgage, and a bank won’t lend on a house unless the appraisal makes sense.

Seems unlikely, but even kitchens and bathrooms can be overdone. AND it can scare buyers. If your house is the most expensive in the neighborhood, potential buyers will be apprehensive about signing on the dotted line. Adding a room and increasing the square footage may mean the house should be worth more, but if that addition puts you at or over the highest prices in the neighborhood, it won’t be a cakewalk to sell. On top of that, you may have just taken up a chunk of yard space with it. The size of the yard matters to buyers, even in the most upgraded house.

Did you go crazy taking out closets to make playrooms, dens, and home offices or using a bedroom as a walk-in closet? You just lowered your bedroom and bath count and lowered the value of your home. Appraisers don’t consider a room a bedroom without a closet. Oh, and that gorgeous pool and spa you spent $50K putting in? To some buyers, it represents hours of good times and entertaining. To others, it represents bigger energy bills and maintenance. It also might take up too much of your yard, leaving little room for kids to play and dogs to romp.

If you are selling your home in the near future, keep your improvements neutral and check with your Realtor about whether the renovations you have planned offer a decent return on investment.

Source: Bankrate, TBWS

Bill Nickerson | NMLS #4194 | 978.273,3227

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Can you answer Yes to any of these questions??

If you or someone you know can answer Yes to any of these questions, we should talk!!

  • Paying PMI (private mortgage insurance)
  • Have an Adjustable Rate Mortgage
  • Credit Card Balances over $10,000
  • Need cash for renovations to your home
  • Have a First and Second mortgage to combine
  • Your Home Equity Line of Credit keeps going up?
  • Simply lower your rate and payment
  • Reduce your term to a 20, 15 or 10 year mortgage
  • Finance your Child’s College Education
  • Is your your 30 Year Fixed Rate mortgage over 4.00%?
  • Is your your 15 Year Fixed Rate mortgage over 3.50%?

These are just some of the reasons it may be time to refinance your home and create cash-flow monthly.  It’s not just about interest rate anymore, it’s about cash-flow!  Creating wealth by increasing your monthly cash-flow.

Will you create a positive monthly cash flow each month?

The longer you have the new loan, the more the savings add up. A $1,200 per year savings could grow to tens of thousands over the life of the loan. If you apply your monthly savings to your principal, you will save even more on interest and own your home sooner.

Bottom Line: If it saves you money  by lowering your rate,  lowering your term or consolidating debts to create cash flow to improve your financial situation, then it is worth looking in to.  If it allows you to create more space in your home, update or renovate, invest in a second home, or even cover the costs of College or a Wedding, then its worth looking into.  Everyone’s loan balance is different, credit score, income and the amount of money borrowed.  So your situation will be different from others.  You owe it to yourself and your family to create your own wealth.

I am always happy to go over real numbers specific to your situation. Reach out anytime and we can see what advantages might be available for you and your family.  

Feel free to call me on my cell at 978.273.3227 or Email

Bill Nickerson NMLS #4194

Let’s Talk Credit: Understanding your Credit Score

Did you know?credit score

  • FICO is an acronym for Fair Isaac and Company.
  • In the 1950’s, Fair Isaac and company created the mathematical calculation that is used to determine your credit score.  It is a tool that was designed to determine one’s credit score and dependability in paying bills.
  • The terms credit score and FICO score are used synonymously.

Twenty or so years ago, lenders and banks would obtain the credit scores from the credit report as a reference point.  Loans were based on the overall financial strength of a borrower and their ability to repay a loan.  The Scores were important but they were not weighed nearly as they are today when making a decision.  If scores were on the low side, compensating factors were looked at such as: additional monthly reserves, the amount of credit accounts you carried, the amount of credit accounts that carry balances, do you have a retirement accounts, etc.  Banks in general want to see that you have at least 6 months of reserves in case you should leave your job and have a few months to carry the loan.  In the case where the loan is riskier or may be a low down payment, the lender will want to see more months of reserves, upwards of 12 months.

Your credit history shows the investor your ability to repay and manage debt.  The older the line of credit, the greater the chance of the scores being higher as credit is based on history.

In today’s lending market, your credit decision is first based on the score and can have an effect on your final mortgage rate.  In general, most banks will not lend on loans with scores that are under 640 unless there is an exception or compensating factors, but this is very limited.  Many banks today won’t go below 680 and don’t allow for any compensating factors as they feel these mortgages are far too risky to have on their books.  Based on current mortgage guidelines, if your score is under 740, it will affect the price of your mortgage rate and you are penalized.

When making a credit decision, banks and lenders will pull your credit report that offers three different reporting agencies;  Experian, Trans Union and Equifax.  The middle score of the three credit bureaus is used.  Over time, these scores will be very close to each other.  Consumers who are just starting to build credit may find a discrepancy in these scores as not all creditors are required to report to all three bureaus.

Look at how a Credit Score affects your Mortgage Rate

The higher your FICO scores the less you can expect to pay for your loan.

For example, on a $200,000 Loan using a 30 YEAR FIXED RATE MORTGAGE.

Your FICO score is:

Your Interest rate is

And your payment is

740-759

3.875%

$940.47

739-720

3.990%

$953.68

700-719

4.125%

$969.30

680-699

4.250%

$983.88

660-679

4.500%

$1,013.37

640-659

4.625%

$1,028.28

As you can see in this example using a snapshot of the same day’s rate, a person with a FICO score of 760 or better will pay $88 less per month for a $200,000 30-year, fixed-rate mortgage than a person in the lowest score category.

Mortgage Rates are only used as an example and do not reflect the interest rate market of today.

Mortgage programs such as FHA allow for low credit scores so that you can get the most competitive rate but this comes with a price.  FHA will charge mortgage insurance, a monthly fee as well as an up-front fee that will be rolled into the loan amount.  After these insurance fees, a mortgage rate of 4.00% will net a rate of 5.40% with the costs of mortgage insurance that is being charged.  A mistake many borrowers make; chasing the lowest interest without truly understanding the real costs of the mortgage.

Written by Bill Nickerson

The First Selfie

 

Have a Great Labor Day!

labor dayWhat does Labor Day mean to us?

To many, it means the end of summer. To others, it means the beginning of school. Those are accurate assumptions but Labor Day is really much more. Labor Day  will be observed on Monday, Sept. 3 2018.

Labor Day: How it Came About & What it Means
Labor Day, the first Monday in September, is a creation of the labor movement and is dedicated to the social and economic achievements of American workers. It constitutes a yearly national tribute to the contributions workers have made to the strength, prosperity, and well-being of our country.

Founder of Labor Day
More than 100 years after the first Labor Day observance, there is still some doubt as to who first proposed the holiday for workers.

Some records show that Peter J. McGuire, general secretary of the Brotherhood of Carpenters and Joiners and a cofounder of the American Federation of Labor, was first in suggesting a day to honor those “who from rude nature have delved and carved all the grandeur we behold.”

But Peter McGuire’s place in Labor Day history has not gone unchallenged. Many believe that Matthew Maguire, a machinist, not Peter McGuire, founded the holiday. Recent research seems to support the contention that Matthew Maguire, later the secretary of Local 344 of the International Association of Machinists in Paterson, N.J., proposed the holiday in 1882 while serving as secretary of the Central Labor Union in New York. What is clear is that the Central Labor Union adopted a Labor Day proposal and appointed a committee to plan a demonstration and picnic.

The First Labor Day
The first Labor Day holiday was celebrated on Tuesday, September 5, 1882, in New York City, in accordance with the plans of the Central Labor Union. The Central Labor Union held its second Labor Day holiday just a year later, on September 5, 1883.

In 1884 the first Monday in September was selected as the holiday, as originally proposed, and the Central Labor Union urged similar organizations in other cities to follow the example of New York and celebrate a “workingmen’s holiday” on that date. The idea spread with the growth of labor organizations, and in 1885 Labor Day was celebrated in many industrial centers of the country.

Labor Day Legislation
Through the years the nation gave increasing emphasis to Labor Day. The first governmental recognition came through municipal ordinances passed during 1885 and 1886. From them developed the movement to secure state legislation. The first state bill was introduced into the New York legislature, but the first to become law was passed by Oregon on February 21, 1887. During the year four more states — Colorado, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and New York — created the Labor Day holiday by legislative enactment. By the end of the decade Connecticut, Nebraska, and Pennsylvania had followed suit. By 1894, 23 other states had adopted the holiday in honor of workers, and on June 28 of that year, Congress passed an act making the first Monday in September of each year a legal holiday in the District of Columbia and the territories.

A Nationwide Holiday
The form that the observance and celebration of Labor Day should take were outlined in the first proposal of the holiday — a street parade to exhibit to the public “the strength and esprit de corps of the trade and labor organizations” of the community, followed by a festival for the recreation and amusement of the workers and their families. This became the pattern for the celebrations of Labor Day. Speeches by prominent men and women were introduced later, as more emphasis was placed upon the economic and civic significance of the holiday. Still later, by a resolution of the American Federation of Labor convention of 1909, the Sunday preceding Labor Day was adopted as Labor Sunday and dedicated to the spiritual and educational aspects of the labor movement.

The character of the Labor Day celebration has undergone a change in recent years, especially in large industrial centers where mass displays and huge parades have proved a problem. This change, however, is more a shift in emphasis and medium of expression. Labor Day addresses by leading union officials, industrialists, educators, clerics and government officials are given wide coverage in newspapers, radio, and television.

The vital force of labor added materially to the highest standard of living and the greatest production the world has ever known and has brought us closer to the realization of our traditional ideals of economic and political democracy. It is appropriate, therefore, that the nation pay tribute on Labor Day to the creator of so much of the nation’s strength, freedom, and leadership — the American worker.

I credit the following site for information about Labor Day http://www.dol.gov/opa/aboutdol/laborday.htm
 
Bill Nickerson NMLS #4194

Bill Nickerson

 

What are Closing Costs?

Closing costs are an accumulation of charges paid to different entities associated with the buying and selling of real estate. For buyers in Massachusetts, closing costs will come to about $3500 plus lenders title insurance and any pre-paid items such as real estate taxes, insurance and interest. Empty Piggy Bank

There may be closing costs customary or unique to a certain locality, but closing costs are usually made up of the following:

Third Party Fees (The Hard Costs)

  • Attorney’s fees (yours and your lender’s if applicable)
  • Appraisal
  • Credit Report Fee
  • Lenders administrative costs
  • Recording fees
  • Plot Plan or Survey fee
  • Title insurance (yours and your lender’s)
  • Loan discount points (click to the left to see if points are worth it)
  • Any documentation preparation fees

Pre-Paid Items:

  • Property taxes (to cover tax period to date)
  • Interest (paid from date of closing to the following first of the month)
  • First payment to escrow account for future real estate taxes and insurance
    • 3 to 4 months of real estate taxes to be held in escrow
    • 2 months of homeowners insurance to be held in escrow
  • Paid receipt for homeowner’s insurance policy (including fire and flood insurance if applicable)
  • First premium of mortgage insurance (if applicable)

Additional Items that No One Tells You About:

  • Purchase and Sales Review
  • Recorded Homestead Act
  • Representation from a real estate attorney other than what the bank provides
  • Home Inspection
  • One Year of Homeowners Insurance up front
  • Owners Title Insurance
  • Buying the Oil in the Oil Tank of your new home

For more details regarding these items, please see my blog post: Home Buying Closing Costs: What to Expect

Or for more clarification on closing costs and how you can save your buyers money, feel free to contact me anytime at bill@billnickerson.com 

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Adjustable Rates 101

An Adjustable Rate Mortgage provides a specific fixed rate term before becoming an adjustable mortgage.  An example: A 10/1 ARM is fixed for the first 10 years and then becomes a 1 year adjustable rate for the remaining term of the mortgage, thus giving you 10 years  of security at a fixed rate.

Advantages: If you know that you are selling your home in a short period of time, 10-12 years or less, you can get a mortgage rate that is 3/4’s to 1 full percent below the traditional mortgage rates.  Today a 10 year ARM is 3.25% and you can borrower up to 2 Million Dollars.

How do they work?

Adjustable Rate Mortgages (ARM’s) come in many different varieties.  The most common ARM’s are the following:  Three Year, Five Year, Seven Year and a Ten Year.  You will also see them displayed in this format as well:  3/1, 5/1, 7/1 and 10/1.  The first number represents the amount of years the loan will be fixed for and will not change from its original start rate.  The higher the first number or term, the higher the interest rate will be.

The second number represents how often the ARM will adjust after the fixed rate term ends.  Using a 5/1 ARM as the example, when your fixed term is about to expire, the Lender will send you a notice via mail notifying you that your rate is about to adjust and what that adjustment will be.  This will occur 45 days prior to this expiration date, in this case that would be 60 months in to this loan (5 Years). The new rate will be set for one year, or the term that is stated in the second number, 5/1.

The adjustments are based on 2 variables, the index and the margin.  The margin is set on the day you get the mortgage and is usually in the range of 2.25 or 2.75 depending upon the type of ARM you go with.  This will never change and is set for the life of the loan.  We would then add the current Index to this margin and combined that would create your new rate.

The Index can come from many places but is selected when we lock in your loan.  Typically we use the One Year Treasury Bill or the One Year LIBOR.  Both indexes move fairly slowly.  These Indexes are always posted in the Wall Street Journal but is very easy just to Google these terms. This will show you the current rate as well as show the history of these rates. You can also click this site at the US Treasury

Today’s one year treasury is at 1.30, this is the index.  Add this to the margin of 2.50 and your new rate today would be 3.875%. This rate would be rounded up to the next highest 1/8th and this would give us 3.875% for one year.  Remember, this is what the rate would adjust to after the fixed term has ended.

Caps: Your loan comes with caps of 5/2/5, each number represents how your loan will adjust.  With the first adjustment the loan can adjust 5% up or down from the original start rate. The second number “2” is what it can adjust each time for the remaining years of the loan.  So, the second adjustment and every one after that the rate can move up or down a maximum of 2%.  The last number is the Life Cap.  This rate will never go higher than 5% of the starting rate.  So if you lock in a rate of 3.25% today, your rate would never exceed 8.25%.  To give you an idea, since 1996, this rate has not exceeded 8.25% at its high point. In the last several years, this rate as adjusted downward and as low as 2.00% in many cases.

I hope this is helpful. Always feel free to ask questions about any of this information. Email me at Bill@billnickerson.com or call 978-273-3227.

Thank you very much,

Bill Nickerson NMLS# 4194 | Flagstar Bank| 1500 District Avenue, Burlington MA

Pre-Qualification vs. Pre-Approval

In Today’s Real Estate Market, it is more important than ever to have a Pre-Qualification in hand when shopping for a home that has been prepared by a reputable Lender, Bank or Credit Union.  The terminology has changed from Pre-Approval to Pre-Qualification depending upon the detail of the Approval provided.

Pre-Qualification

A mortgage loan pre-qualification is an estimate of how much house you can afford and how much money a lender would be willing to loan you.  The best time to get pre-qualified is right before you start looking at homes.  This way you can focus on looking at houses that are within your price range.  By providing a loan officer with your income, assets, debts, and a potential down payment amount, he would then be able to give you a ballpark figure of how much he thinks you could afford to pay for a monthly mortgage.  Your Credit is reviewed and your loan is submitted through an Automated Underwriting Service (AUS). There is no cost to this service and no commitment is required.  This estimate is a helpful tool to you in figuring out if buying a home is a viable option, and if so, what your price range would probably be. A pre-qualification is to give you a range of home prices and in no way is a commitment to lend on a home. The time frame for this is less than 24 hours.

Pre-Approval

Getting pre-approved means that you have a tentative written commitment from a lender for mortgage funding.  In the pre-approval process, you provide a loan officer with actual documentation of your income, assets, and debts.   The Loan Officer is submitting this as if it is an actual loan and a property has been identified.  This will be reviewed by the lenders underwriting team.  The lender will run a credit check and verify all your employment and financial information. Once the final approval comes in, the lender will give you a letter of commitment stating how much money the bank is willing to loan you for a home purchase. Having a certified pre-approval in hand when you start house hunting lets real estate agents and sellers know you are serious about buying when they see you have your mortgage funding in place.  By having your funding in place, it becomes an extreme advantage over other buyers when it comes to negotiating your home purchase as your offer will stand above the rest and you will be able to close in a much shorter time period. The timeframe for a Pre-Approval can take up to 5 Business Days.closing-costs guy

It is important to note that a pre-approval and a pre-commitment is still subject to further review as any loan is.  As variables change in lending or in the borrowers financial picture, additional items may be required. In addition to the financial commitment, the lender will also need to verify the property appraisal and title search.

Bottom Line:     

Pre-Qualification is an estimate of a price range of what you can afford by verifying credit, income and running your loan through an Automated Underwriting System such as Fannie Mae or FHA as well as others.     Pre-Approval is a verified commitment from the bank stating how much money it will loan you. Make sure your Pre-Approval is an actual commitment from the bank as opposed to a Loan Officer just doing a quick credit check.

For More Information about Loan Approvals, Loan Programs and mortgages that are best suited to your financial needs, contact me anytime at 978-273-3227 or  email me  and  you can always visit my mortgage site at www.billnickerson.com

Bill Nickerson

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The Perfect Loan File

This article came from Mark Greene contributor to Forbes Magazine.  It is very helpful to all of us so that we can truly understand what is going on in this industry and so that we can educate our buyers and sellers.

The media has it all wrong – securing mortgage approval and satisfying credit underwriting guidelines are not the difficulties plaguing mortgage consumers. It’s in meeting the rigorous documentation requirements that most people fall flat. The good news is, the fix is simple. Just scan, photocopy, fax, and deliver every aspect of your financial life. Then, shortly before closing, check everything again.closing-costs guy

Mortgage consumers who enter the mortgage approval process ready to battle their chosen mortgage lender will come out with a nightmare story to tell. As the process, requirements, and guidelines are the same for everybody, your mindset is the game-changer. Accepting the redundant documentation necessary for lender approval will make everyone’s life easier.

When I was a kid, my father occasionally issued directives that I naturally thought were superfluous, and when asked why I needed to do whatever it was he wanted me to do, his answer was often: “Because I said so.” This never seemed to address my query but always left me without a retort, and I would usually comply. This is exactly what consumers should do during the mortgage approval process. When your lender requests what seems to be over-documentation and you wonder why you need it, accept the simple edict – “because I said so.” You will find the mortgage approval process much less frustrating.

So, what’s the perfect loan? Well, it’s one that (a) pays back the lender and (b) pays back the lender on time. Underwriting the perfect loan is not the goal that mortgage lenders aspire to today.

The real goal is the perfect loan file.

Mortgage lenders have suffered staggering losses and gone out of business because of the dreaded loan repurchase. As mortgage delinquencies increased, Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac began to audit mortgage loans they had purchased and discovered substandard and fraudulent underwriting practices that violated representations and warranties made, stating these were high quality loans. Fannie and Freddie began forcing the originating lenders of these “bad” loans to buy them back. So a small correspondent mortgage lender is forced to buy back a single mortgage loan in the amount of $250,000. This becomes a $250,000 loss to a small mortgage business for a single loan, because it will never be repaid.

It doesn’t take many of these bad loan buybacks to close the doors on many small mortgage operations. The lending houses suffered billions of dollars of losses repurchasing loans from Fannie and Freddie, and began to do the same thing for loans they had purchased from smaller originators.

The small and medium sized mortgage originators that survived created underwriting guidelines and procedures to eliminate the threat of future loan repurchase losses. The answer? The perfect loan file.

shopping cartIt’s no longer necessary to have excellent credit, a big down payment and stable employment with income sufficient to support your debt service to guarantee your loan approval. However, you must have a borrower profile that meets the credit underwriting guidelines for the loan you are requesting. And, more importantly, you have to be able to hard-copy-guideline-document your profile.

Every nook and cranny of your financial life has to be corroborated, double- and triple-checked, and reviewed again before closing. This way, if the originating lender has created a loan file that is exactly consistent with published underwriting guidelines and has documented while adhering to those guidelines, the chances are that your loan will not be subject to repurchase.

Borrowers also need to prepare for processing and underwriting. Processors and underwriters are the people trained and charged with gathering (processors), all of your required-for-approval financial documents, and then approving (underwriters), your loan. You can assume these people are well trained and very experienced, as they are tasked with assembling and approving a high-quality-these-people-will-pay-us-back loan file. But just how do they go about that?

The process begins with the filter – the loan originator (a.k.a loan officer, mortgage consultant, mortgage adviser, etc.) – tasked to match the qualifications of a particular mortgage deal to the appropriate underwriting guidelines. It is the filter’s job to determine if a loan scenario is approvable and to gather the documentation to support that determination. It is here, at the beginning of the approval process, where the deal is made or broken. The rest of the approval process is just papering the file.

The filter determines whether the information provided by the borrower can be validated and documented. This is simple, since most mortgages are approved by automated underwriting engines such as Desktop Underwriter, and the automated approval generates a list of the documents needed to paper the loan file. An underwriter can, at this stage, request additional supporting documentation evidence at their discretion, as not all circumstances neatly fit into the prescribed underwriting box. If the filter creates a loan file with accurate information, then secures the documentation resulting from the automated underwriting findings, the loan will close uneventfully.

So, let’s begin with the pre-approval call. Mortgage pre-approval is typically accomplished with a telephone interview. A prospective borrower calls a mortgage rep (filter), and the questions begin. There will be lots of questions as this critical phase of the process is akin to the discovery period in a trial – you’ll need to disclose everything. Expect to answer queries on what you do for a living, how long you’ve been employed in your current field, and what your salary is. If there is a co-borrower, they will have to answer the same questions.

Every dollar in checking, savings, investments and retirement accounts, also known as assets to close, as well as gifts from relatives and non-profit grants, has to be accounted for. Essentially everything appearing on a borrower’s asset-radar-screen has to be documented and explained.

If you were previously a homeowner and sold your home in a short sale, or if you own a home now and plan to keep it as an investment or rental property, there are new and specific underwriting guidelines created just for you. In these cases, full disclosure of your credit and homeownership past can potentially eliminate unforeseen mortgage approval woes. For instance, Fannie Mae has a new underwriting guideline called “Buy-and-Bail,” for current homeowners’ planning on keeping their existing home as an investment/rental property. Properties not meeting the 30% equity test for “Buy-and-Bail” result in additional asset requirements to purchase a new home. Buyers with a short sale history may have to wait two to three years before they are eligible for mortgage financing again. Full vetting of your previous mortgage life will save you the dreaded we-have-a-problem call from your mortgage lender.

It all comes down to your proof. If the lender asks for a specific document, give them exactly what they are asking for, not what “should be OK,” – because it won’t be.  This is where the approval process tends to go off the rails, when the lender asks for specific documentation and the borrower supplies something else. Here, too, is where both sides get frustrated. So if the lender asks for a bank statement and there are 5 pages for that bank statement, send them all 5 pages, and not just the summary. If you send them the summary page and they ask again, don’t complain that the lender keeps asking for the same thing when you never sent it in the first place. This may sound elementary, but the vast majority of mortgage approval process woes stem from scenarios just like this.

The reason the mortgage approval process is now so rigorous is simple. Avoiding defaults and loan buybacks has become the primary goal of mortgage lenders.   Higher standards are reducing loan defaults, which should mean fewer foreclosures in the future. Government data shows that less than 2% of loans originated in 2009, that were resold to Freddie Mac and Fannie Mae went into default after 18 months, down from more than 22% default rates for 2007 loans.

So when your lender requests specific documents from you, give it to them just “because they said so.”

For more information about lending and financing, please contact Bill at 978-273-3227  or by email  Bill’s Email

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Understanding how your Credit Works

credit scoreCredit scores were developed by Fair Isaac and company (FICO). The models created using FICO take all the detailed information about your credit report and produce your credit score using different weights and factors contained in the FICO scoring models.

The purpose of a FICO score is to show how likely you are to become at least 90 days late in making payments in the next 24 months based on patterns in your credit history, compared with patterns of millions of past customers.

Fair Isaac divides the scoring range into five risk categories.

  • 780-850 Low Risk
  • 740-780 Medium, Low Risk
  • 690-740 Medium Risk
  • 620-690 Medium High Risk
  • 620 and Below High Risk or “Non Prime”

Each of the three major credit bureaus uses their own version of the FICO scoring model. Factors influencing your credit score are:

  • Current or late payments
  • How late the payments are
  • Number of open accounts you have
  • How much credit you are using in relation to how much credit you have available
  • If there are serious delinquencies on your file like bankruptcy, liens and charge off accounts

Your credit score is a snapshot, in that it is developed at the time of inquiry by a credit grantor pulling your credit file. Your credit score can change with the passage of time as well as with the addition of new information to your credit file. As delinquency information in your file ages, it’s negative affect on your credit score lessens.

Credit Scoring uses the following five areas of information to calculate the score:

  • Payment history 35%
  • Amounts owed 30%
  • Length of credit history 15%
  • New credit inquiries 10%
  • Type of credit used 10%

It is best to keep balances low on credit cards and other revolving accounts – maintain balances below 50 of the available credit limit. 24 is optimal. The best way to improve your score is to pay down revolving debt.

An inquiry is defined as a request by a lender for a copy of an applicant’s credit report. Inquiries remain on a credit report for two years, but credit scores only look at inquiries in the last 12 months. Your own request for a credit report to review for accuracy is not considered in your credit score.

Apply for new credit accounts only when you need them. Remember that closing accounts does not make them go away. A closed account with a poor payment history may become a more recent account because the date of activity will change. An open account with a low or zero balance is better than a closed account.

HELPFUL WEBSITES FOR YOUR REFERENCE: You can obtain your free annual credit report, without a FICO score, at www.annualcreditreport.com

To contact the credit bureaus:

Experian  1-888-397-3742   www.experian.com

Equifax  1-800-846-5279 www.equifax.com

Transunion  1-800-916-8800  www.transunion.com

DID YOU KNOW??
  1. FICO scores are used not only for a mortgage and credit cards, but for auto loans, insurance and utilities.
  2. Credit reports reflect charge offs or collection accounts for up to 7 years, and bankruptcies for up to 10 years.
  3. You can order a free credit report annually, at no charge, without impacting your credit score.
  4. Having a minor balance without missing a payment is better than closing an account.
  5. Paying off an old collection may result in a drop in your credit score.
  6. Consolidating credit cards increases your ratio of debt to available credit and lowers your score.
  7. Using the maximum amount on a credit line can drop your score by 100 points.

question manFor more information regarding financing or the economy, please call or email me at any time.  I can be reached via email at Bill’s Email or call me at 978-273-3227.

A Cold Ride

Bill Nickerson Training for the Pan Mass Challenge

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Home Buying Closing Costs: What to Expect

Your mortgage lender, real estate agent, real estate attorney, or settlement agent should be in touch with you a few days before your closing settlement with the final amount of money you’ll need to close on a purchase of a home. However, in some cases, the call may come too close for comfort and may be as late as the night before your closing, so you should be prepared well in advance of the type of fees associated with purchasing a home.  We refer to these fees as closing costs.

The home buying closing costs you might expect to see include:

Attorney fee: In some states, the lender will require you to close with a real estate attorney. These fees are typically fixed and start around $650 and can go as high as $1,000, but in other parts of the country you may have to pay an hourly rate.  You can also hire an attorney for personal representation, prepare the purchase and sales and review all documents in the transaction.  This is additional and can range from $250 to $1500 depending upon the services provided.

Flood certification fee: You’ll pay this fee to have your lender determine if your home is in a federally designated flood zone. If it is, your lender may require you to purchase flood insurance before agreeing to lend you money. This will cost on the range of $25 to $50

Lender’s appraisal fee: The lender wants to make sure your property is worth at least as much as what it is lending you. The appraisal fee will vary, depending on the value of the property. In higher-value homes, you may find a lender requiring two appraisals, and you may be required to pay for both of them. Depending on the state in which you are located, the appraisal fee could be as low as $450 for a single family home and as high as $700 multifamily homes.

Lender’s credit report: Your lender will pull your credit report a few times during the loan application process to make sure your financial situation hasn’t changed. Expect to pay $35 to $100 per credit report for each person that has applied for the loan.

Lender’s document preparation fees: The document preparation fee is a charge the lender bills you to assemble and create the documents for your closing. Ever since settlement agents and lenders unbundled their fees, lenders have labeled their services and collected a fee for each. Expect to pay between $695 and $995.

Lender’s Title insurance: The lender wants to protect its investment, so it wants to make sure the property you are buying is insured and remains insured as long as the home has a loan on the property. The lender’s coverage will cost $2.50 per thousand borrowed.  When it’s time to refinance, this cost is discounted in many cases to as little as $1.50 per thousand.

Real Estate Tax escrow: In some states, the amount the lender requires of a buyer may be substantial.  Taxes are billed quarterly and semi-annual and the lender will want to hold 3 to 5 months in escrow.   You may receive money from the seller for bills that come due after the closing if they cover the time the seller owned the property. Like with homeowner’s insurance, the lender will probably require a lump sum deposit from you to the escrow account at closing settlement.

Mortgage point and loan origination fee: The origination fees are tied to the total cost of your loan and can run up to about 3 percent of your loan. If you pay a point, you should be getting a reduction of your mortgage interest rate. Whether you pay points or origination fees may be up to you. If you decide to obtain a loan with a lower-than-market interest rate, you may agree to pay points to lower your interest rate or buy down the rate.

Notary and other fees: Depending on your state, your mortgage paperwork may have to be reviewed and signed by a notary public. The notary public may charge a fee to witness your signature and verify it on the closing documents.

Prepaid interest on the loan: Usually a lender will bill you in advance for the interest on your loan from the day your loan closes to the end of the month. If you close early in the month, the amount will be larger; if you close near the end of the month, the amount will be smaller. This amount will be tied to the interest rate on your loan.

Recording fees for deed or mortgage: You’ll receive title to your home in the form of a legal document, and this document will need to be recorded with your county recorder of deeds. The mortgage will need to be recorded as well. The recording fee will vary from state to state, but you should expect to pay at least $360 in Massachusetts. Additionally, in some states, there is a mortgage tax that is based on the amount of the mortgage. For example, if the mortgage tax is 1 percent and your mortgage loan is for $250,000, the tax will be $250 to record the document.

Owners Title insurance: If you choose to purchase a buyer’s policy, and I absolutely think you should, the cost is $4.00 per thousand based on the purchase price of the home. If you only buy a lender’s title policy and then someone makes a title claim to the property and you lose the house, only the lender will get a check. Plus, if you have equity in the home, that equity will not be protected now or in the future. You need to buy a separate owner’s policy so that you will be fully compensated in this sort of situation.

Additional Items:

Purchase and Sales Review:  Most purchase and sales are provided by the real estate agents through the Greater Board of Realtors.  It is good to have these reviewed by a real estate attorney and can cost $250 to $500 for this.

Home inspection: While you should have had your own inspector go through the home you are buying early in the home-buying process, this fee will be required by your lender to make sure a newly built home has been completed. Your lender won’t want to fund your purchase unless it has sent someone out to actually see the home and make sure it’s ready for closing. This fee might runs between $250 and $500, depending on the type of new home you’re buying.

For more information regarding closing costs or mortgages, please email me at bill@billnickerson.com

Bill Nickerson, NMLS# 4194

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 William J. Nickerson | NMLS #4194 | bill@billnickerson.com | 978-273-3227